Why absurdly enormous bags are here to stay

Designers aren’t always known for prioritizing practicality, so this seems like a welcome moment at a fashion meeting. The Spring/Summer 2025 runways saw models Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton and Hermès strolling down the catwalk in roomy, sensible doctor bags, while Proenza Schouler carried giant handbags. Last fall, Yves Saint Laurent launched its latest candy line, the spacious Y — a bag that might actually fit in your kitchen sink — Now a celebrity favoriteAmong them are Angelia Jolie and Bella Hadid.

Tote bags have been emerging as a trend for a few years now. In fact, you can trace them back to the time when Matthew Macfadyen’s character, Tom Wambsgans, made fun of a woman’s “ridiculously wide” handbag in the TV drama Succession, a show dedicated to… The lives of the wealthy – who don’t need to carry anything About themselves. “What’s in there?” Tom asked. “Subway flats? Her lunch pail? It’s huge. You can take it camping. You can move it around the floor after work at the bank.” Succession’s billionaires may not have approved of oversized handbags, but the fashion industry did.

While it may be nice to think that the world of high fashion is becoming more aware of the needs of the average woman, it is likely all part of the cyclical nature of the industry, which has seen… Small bags are dominant Just a few years ago (after all, one of the other big trends of the season is… Bags inspired by the shape of a sausage dog). Once you fill your bag with your belongings, there’s a new style on the block. And while the latest designs may offer a more practical solution for women, the truth is that the desire for a handbag is rarely due to simple practicality. A bag, especially one specially designed, is more than just something to transport things in. It can also be a status symbol, an item of self-expression and personal identity, or an object of ambition.

Squeeze the bag

The term “IT Bag” gained popularity in the 1990s, but the concept dates back decades. In 1955, Coco Chanel created a quilted leather bag with a long chain. The 2.55 – designed to be hung over the shoulder – was revolutionary at the time, offering women greater freedom than top-handle purses or handbags. Seventy years later, this bag is still one of the most sought-after designer bags.

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The 1950s also saw Hermès rename one of its bags after Grace Kelly (the actress famously carried the bag across her stomach to hide her pregnancy), while in 1961 Gucci named the now-famous Jackie handbag. The 1990s and 2000s saw the arrival of more bags – Dior’s Saddlebag, Chloe’s Paddington, Prada Galleria.

But the most popular ones appeared in the 1980s, when Hermès launched a bag It is named after and inspired by actress and singer Jane Birkin. The Birkin has become the ultimate symbol of exclusivity because, even if you have the money to buy one (we’re talking a five-figure price), you still have to join a waiting list to buy it. In one of the most memorable episodes of Sex and the City, Samantha does her best to secure Birkin (The show has done a lot to boost popular culture, with the Fendi Baguette bag making a big appearance as well. “It’s a baguette,” Carrie Bradshaw famously cried When the robber asks her to hand over her bag.)

Jane Birkin once told Vogue: “I always attach things to my bags because I don’t like them to look like everyone else’s bags,” and in the early summer of 2023, TikTok was filled with tutorials on how to “Perkivi” your bag By adding jewelry, stickers, ribbons, and strings of beads to it. Later that year, Overflowing bag It has become the go-to accessory – with Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 models carrying overstuffed bags down the catwalk, reminding us “The Weary English Woman” The aesthetic embodied by the film’s anarchic character, Bridget Jones.

While the Birkin is an extreme example, exclusivity, whether through price or limited stock, is what makes so many of the bags special. desirable -And ambitious. Those who can’t afford a full wardrobe might be able to save up and splurge on an expensive bag, which they can wear every day and mark themselves as a Chloe girl, a Chanel woman, a Loewe fan – or, hopefully, a little bit of the magic the bag holds. namesake, whether it’s Mulberry’s Alexa (inspired by British model Alexa Chung), or Lady Dior (Princess Diana), to rub them.

Is the era of smart bags over? Not really, it’s just that must-have bags have gone from high fashion to something more accessible and utilitarian. Uniqlo’s curved crossbody bag and Lululemon’s Everywhere belt bag are ubiquitous on city streets, while TikTok has made Baggu’s nylon shopping bags a sensation, and the Cos quilted tote is beloved by the fashion set.

Even celebrities are starting to carry less attention-grabbing bags – mid-priced, minimalist shoulder bags from Singaporean brand Aupen Loved by Taylor Swift, Hailey Bieber and Kylie Jenner.

Meanwhile, Fools have lost a lot of their stigmaespecially among Generation Z. Having a lower profile is as much of a win as scoring an actual goal. Just look at the last one “Weirkin”, Walmart’s version of the Birkinwhich may have been searched for as briefly as the original. And for those who want to invest in a classic bag, Favorite options are often more attractive.

In an attempt to revive interest, some designers are revisiting old classics. Last year, Balenciaga relaunched the motorcycle bag – a favorite of Kate Moss in the early 2000s. His name is now Le City, Moss is back to help sell it. At $2,900 (£2,377), it’s a relative bargain in today’s world of luxury handbags.

There may be life in the designer’s bag yet. Charli XCX is a face JW Anderson corner bag, And recently She performed on SNL with a Gucci Jackie bag Hanging over her shoulder. If anyone can put something into the zeitgeist, it’s her.

Perhaps signaling that affordability and practicality — along with classic design and some brand recognition — is what people want from a bag right now is the recent revival of Longchamp’s Le Pliage, a lightweight foldable bag first launched in 1993. It’s not the most attractive of armor, however Generation Z has fallen hard for thisSales of the $155 (£127) bag are skyrocketing. It’s also another roomy, fun bag – so maybe tote bags are actually back, at least for now.

Perhaps more interesting than the bag we carry is what’s inside it – hence the huge popularity of videos in which people spill their contents, whether they’re social media influencers or… A-list for Vogue (Florence Pugh carries bottles of hot sauce inside.) In which case, let’s hope tote bags – and everything we can fit inside them – are here to stay.

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