menswear’s playful, nostalgic mood sparks joy
The saying “We don’t stop playing because we grow old; “We grow up because we stop playing” seems to have resonated with menswear designers for Spring/Summer 2025. Playful, nostalgic collections, inspired by the freedom of childhood, reinvigorate the fashion story.
At the forefront of this youth revolution is Matteo Blasi of Bottega Veneta. Despite the designer’s impending defection to Chanel, Blazzi’s work for the Italian luxury brand continues to delight.
At his spring/summer 2025 show, guests, including Julianne Moore and Jacob Elordi, sat on bean bags shaped like cartoon animals and the runway exuded a carefree mood.
Honor and reverence For legendary children’s writer and illustrator Richard Scarry, Blasey showed a large version of Scarry’s The biggest word book ever With a cover printed on intrecciato leather. The design was based on the 2013 edition of the book, which was first published in 1985.
At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons revisited their Spring/Summer 2025 collection, drawing inspiration from past seasons. The duo showed off trompe l’oeil knits in bold superhero colors of crimson and electric cobalt. The shirts are designed with underwire seams and collars, encouraging the wearer to fidget and play.
In S.S. Daly, A student knits Decorated with signature duck graphics, the PE shorts feature a goldfish motif, while Loewe is currently selling mini fur handbags in the shape of hamsterand J. W. Anderson Jumpers Features slices of birthday cake. While womenswear was once the main domain of colour, texture and fun, menswear is now beginning to follow suit, moving away from its traditional monochromatic roots.
“Fun in menswear is having a moment at the moment, and brands like Prada, Bottega Veneta and SS Daly are leading the charge,” says Selfridges’ buying director for menswear, womenswear and children, Boss Meyer. “Over the past couple of seasons, we’ve seen a huge increase in customer interest in these fun men’s pieces. Sales of the distinctive knits, bold prints and nostalgic graphics are positive. Prada shirts, in particular, have been flying off the shelves, and we’ve had waiting lists for some of the Bottega Veneta This response indicates a real passion for menswear that feels fun, expressive and a little less serious.
While the shift toward playfulness may be a response to the widespread cool luxury movement — sometimes characterized by sloppy clothing steeped in good taste — the shift also speaks to our collective longing for nostalgia. As sequels dominate the box office and 2000s fashion trends make a comeback — like early-years Leonardo DiCaprio-style hairstyles — our clothes have also become a way to reconnect with a simpler time.
“Nostalgia definitely plays a role in wanting clothes to take us to a place or time that is more innocent, fun and playful, and where we had more freedom,” says designer Gareth Scurfield. “Maybe that’s why I chose Ralph Lauren Teddy bear knits It has gained a lot of popularity in recent years, and adult men are wearing Paddington Bear canvas coats again. Searches for duffel coats on Mr Porter’s website have increased by 237 per cent in the past three months, while British Esquire featured Paddington wearing a duffel coat on its latest cover.
Italian label Moschino has always been synonymous with a certain lack of seriousness. Under former creative director Jeremy Scott, the brand produced bright, colorful collections, and the pinnacle (or perhaps the nadir) of its childlike approach was Katy Perry’s iconic Chandelier Moschino outfit that Katy Perry wore to the 2019 Met Gala. Now, under the creative direction of new designer Adrian Abiolaza, Moschino continues to embrace lightweight designs, albeit with a new focus on wearability. The men’s and women’s Spring/Summer 2025 show featured male models wearing stylish jackets with built-in pinstripes and bright yellow smiley faces. Jumpersand Clutch bags In the form of watermelon slices.
“What I do at Moschino is very instinctive and the playfulness comes with a certain sarcasm. Then the play becomes meaningful and avoids falling into silliness,” says Abiolaza, who also believes social media’s thirst for feature articles fuels the atmosphere. “Image is very important now – people They want others to see and interact with the interesting choices they make. I also feel that fun and optimism are things we need more of these days, and getting that message across through clothing is great.
It is no secret that the world is increasingly fearful, with global conflicts intensifying, economic institutions shaken – especially in the fashion industry, where many luxury brands grapple with stalling growth – and the return of populism reshaping the political landscape. Against this backdrop, it’s no wonder we’re turning to our closets to find moments of fun and escape. This, coupled with our ever-decreasing attention span, means that unexpected clothing in eye-catching colors is becoming a trend.
“I see the increasing shift towards playfulness in menswear – and fashion as a whole – as a reaction to the seriousness of the world today,” says British designer Stephen Stuckey-Daly. “In difficult times, we often seek something that feels lighter, and allows us to lean into a more cheerful and optimistic perspective.”
Daly also suggests that the fashion industry’s shift toward brightness, optimism, and comfort may stem from a rare moment of collective self-reflection. “For many years, there has been a culture in fashion where seriousness can easily turn into pretentiousness. “I’ve always made an effort to avoid that,” he explains. “What’s exciting now is to see a younger generation of designers and fashion people who seem to share this Mentality. “They are moving away from the caricature of overly serious fashion personalities, and embracing a more relaxed, playful style that feels fresh and more relevant.” Designer Harry Lambert’s modern art collection for Zara is a more accessible example.
It may seem difficult to incorporate this fun trend into an adult’s wardrobe, but it’s not impossible. By choosing one statement piece and combining it with more muted elements, one can easily elevate an infantry uniform. Intarsia SS Daley Cardi duck With some jeans and a coat, for example, or a Prada super knit Wear it over a white shirt and under a navy suit.
“I’ve had a few of my clients surprise me recently,” says Scurfield, who wears suit-focused menswear such as Colin Firth and Ben Whishaw. “Although they usually choose a simple outfit, sometimes they will see a fun print or a bold cartoon color on the rails and be drawn to it. It could be something as simple as a shiny knee-length Dior sock or one of these Loewe t-shirts Or jackets decorated with childish nautical illustrations. Ultimately, he says, “These pieces offer a bit of innocent fun — no hidden agenda, no political messages — just a cute duck or two on a pretty knit sweater.”
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