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How Scandinavian dressing can make us happier

(Image credit: Serenity Stroll/BBC/Getty Images)

The photo collage shows from left to right: Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week; Rebecca Bay, creative director of Marimekko; fashion influencer Nene Echim; Designer Cecily Bahnsen; Guest at CFW (Image source: Serenity Strul/BBC/Getty Images)

Nordic style is easy to wear – and it can also cheer us up, say its fans. With Copenhagen Fashion Week just around the corner, we’re exploring fun and practical movement in Scandinavian girl style.

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One bright morning last fall, a group of photographers crowded onto a narrow sidewalk. As their doors clicked, a street-style procession passed by: Chanel bags swaying through torn denim jackets, sheer ballet skirts paired with shiny high heels, and menswear-inspired suits embroidered with tiny beaded strawberries. Top models like Paloma Elsesser and TikTok stars like Maya Stepper made an appearance; Pamela Anderson was walking around in a crisp white shirt and ivory pants.

The scene was on par with what you see in street style centers like Milan, New York and Paris. But this was happening in Copenhagen, a city with a population just 10% of London’s and more famous for its Little Mermaid statue than its fashion stores. How did this small Scandinavian town become a new center of cool?

Copenhagen Fashion Week guests display the layers and bright colors typical of Scandinavian girls' elegance

Copenhagen Fashion Week guests show off the layers and bright colors typical of Scandinavian girls’ elegance (Image source: Getty Images)

“People are obsessed with Scandinavian style because you don’t have to change who you are to make it work,” says Laird Borelli-Person, a longtime Vogue editor and fashion historian who splits her time between New York and Stockholm. For fashion critics like Borelli Persson, “Scandinavian girl style” has transcended established trends like #BarbieCore and #QuietLuxury to become a larger fashion movement rooted in cool shapes, responsible practices, and the unexpected “ka-pow” of color or print. “You could say Scandinavian girl style is the new French girl style,” says Borelli-Persson, referring to the long-standing fashion combination of tousled hair, designer bags, very skinny jeans and heels. “Scandinavian girls’ style is different. It’s layering. It’s about shapes. You don’t need a Hermès bag and a restrictive diet to be able to wear it. People who love clothes find this idea really liberating.”

According to Harvard professor and sociologist Dr. Martha Beck, there is a science behind Scandinavian style. “Women in Sweden and Norway are exposed to about six hours of sunlight during the winter,” she told the BBC. “That’s it! So they use fashion to combat the feelings of depression and lethargy that can come from very dark and cold days.”

Image source Getty Images Image source Getty Images Image caption Berger Christensen's bright lavender coat embodies feel-good Scandinavian style

Image source Getty Images Image source Getty Images Image caption Berger Christensen’s bright lavender coat embodies feel-good Scandinavian style

The insistence on cheerful colors and patterns is an old ethos in Marimekkothe 72-year-old Finnish fashion brand that was first sold in Italy in the 1950s, then brought to the United States by Jackie Kennedy in 1960. Today, you can see Marimekko dresses on Carrie Bradshaw in the TV series And Just Like That; Actress and producer Sarah Jessica Parker is also a real-life fan. “Since the beginning, our mission has been to bring joy and color to everyday life through bold prints, especially during the dark seasons,” says the brand’s current designer, Rebecca Bay, who points out that each Marimekko collection is tested so the wearer can walk Run, jump and even dance on the pieces, which helps encourage movement and combat feelings of winter sluggishness.

“I think there’s this idea that when it’s cold, you have to look puffy, and wear either all neon or all grey,” says Nina Eichem, a Norwegian fashion influencer and stylist. “But we’re very creative with how we layer colors and textures. For example, I like to wear an oversized leopard-print coat with a very casual gray blazer and a handbag with a touch of pink. It adds cheer and also allows you to move.”

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For those who don’t tend to play with bright colours, bold prints can help bring energy to dark times too, whether it’s blue floral print jeans from Marimekko from Helsinki or candy-coloured plaid scarves from Acne Studios from Stockholm. “The way Scandinavian designers use layers to give the eye something complex and exciting to embrace—it’s really intentional,” says Dr. Beck. She says that choosing vibrant prints and colors is a way to “become a little light” to the larger world through clothing, and that vibrant design can also be a form of “community building.”

Image source: Getty Images Image caption A range of cheerful colors can appear during the long winters in the Nordic countries

Image source: Getty Images Image caption A range of cheerful colors can appear during the long winters in the Nordic countries

“The thing you’ll notice about most Nordic fashion brands is that they’re run by a team,” said Borelli-Persson, noting that many of the biggest surprises at Copenhagen Fashion Week — like Berger Christensen’s Rotate, a favorite at nighttime parties — are fashionable. Brilliant. The Ganni girls’ core collection and the developed casual wear line Baum und Pferdgarten, as well as Toteme – are designed by a team rather than an individual. “This is a real indication of the Scandinavian spirit of collaboration and being part of something bigger than yourself,” she says. “When you design to benefit society and not just your fame or fortune, it can be much better for your mental health. And when shoppers are given quality goods they know they can trust, that’s healthier, too.”

“Simplicity, practicality and functionality”

“Danish style is very much rooted in simplicity, practicality and functionality that serve as the basis for creative expression,” he says. Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO Cecilie Thorsmark. In a world where runway collections often feel like theatrical gimmicks rather than exciting everyday choices, the focus on wearable style has struck a chord — even among those who have used Parisian chic as their personal style standard for decades.

This spirit is reflected in current Scandinavian fashion aficionados, including playful Danish brand Cecilie Bahnsen and basics label with a quirky twist Toteme, both of which add eye-catching details to familiar staples that make dressing both easier and more fun. He wears. At Toteme, that means turning the collar of your standard winter coat into a wrap scarf so you never forget your scarf at home. At Cecilie Bahnsen, that translates to strappy dresses that let you customize many of the pieces to your body length, making it easy to wear the dresses under long-sleeve sweaters on cooler days, or pull the hem up a little if you’re on the short side.

The spring and summer 2025 collection by Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen combines fun and practicality (Image source Getty Images)

The spring and summer 2025 collection by Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen combines fun and practicality (Image source Getty Images)

Bahnsen says her mix of romantic details and practical elements is directly linked to her Danish heritage. “Growing up in Scandinavia, there is an element of functionality that plays a role in how I dress,” she explains. “My clothes have to fit real life, whether I’m cycling to my shop in the rain, or playing with my son in the bitter cold and windy weather.”

Fashion designer and influencer Ichim is a regular attendee of Copenhagen Fashion Week, along with fashion shows in London and Milan. In the past few years, she says, her audience has “exploded” with global interest from overseas street style fans and fashion designers alike. “I think people thought all we wore were ski jackets and hats,” Echim joked. “But our style proves that you can be practical, but never boring. There’s a lot of innovation that comes when designers think about how your clothes work.”

Changing room

Changing room is a BBC column highlighting fashion and style innovators on the front lines of progressive development.

London Fashion Week announced this month Updated sustainability requirements For all participating fashion brands, including a focus on low-impact materials and a ban on single-use props during fashion shows. Where did they get the idea from? Copenhagen Fashion Weekwhich will require all brands to prove they’re not just landfill cocoons since 2023. And when the next fashion show cycle hits the city on January 27, they’ll be opening with OpéraSport, an emerging brand that uses only recycled and organic textiles in its gorgeous quilted covers. . Pencil skirts and slouchy Oxford shirts.

Guests at Copenhagen Fashion Week show off cheerful prints by Nordic designers, including Finnish brand Marimekko (Image source: Getty Images)

Guests at Copenhagen Fashion Week show off cheerful prints by Nordic designers, including Finnish brand Marimekko (Image source: Getty Images)

“These partnerships are vital to driving a positive agenda and creating impactful change,” says Thorsmark. It is also rooted in a region of the world where, as Borelli-Person says, “there are still more trees than people.” This means that even fashion companies located in cities like Stockholm or Oslo are essentially surrounded by nature. “When I went to some of my first meetings at ECCO, I saw their offices and their factory were basically located in the forest,” recalls Natasha Ramsay-Lévy, the famous French designer who The Danish shoe brand’s quirky ballet flats Spotted on Chloë Sevigny. “I felt very inspired and excited to do the work there. Nature can make you feel more creative.”

But even for those who don’t live a full outdoor life, there’s another reason to embrace Scandinavian girl style. “I don’t want to go for a walk in the woods every day,” Ekem says. “But I like to buy and wear pieces that I know will last, and I trust my favorite Scandinavian designers. The quality and style our brands create will last for years. They can be sustainable and still look really great.”

Copenhagen Fashion Week takes place from January 27 to 31.

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